This in depth guide to the Evolv Nexxo will give you detailed information that will help you make the best possible decision on which climbing shoe to get for your next climbing adventure.
You won’t need to try every climbing shoe out their to figure out which one is best. However, checking out a few in depth and detailed summaries of different climbing shoes will definitely allow you to get the most out of your purchase.
The Evolv Nexxo Review has a few unique features that definitely make it worth adding to your climbing shoe collection.
In Depth Guide of the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe
Evolv Nexxo Review Climbing Shoe Score
Edging – 10 out of 10
Sensitivity – 9 out of 10
Cracks – 7 out of 10
Fit – 6 out of 10
How Well Does the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe Actually Perform?
Edging
One of the main reasons that the Nexxo is so great at edging is because of what’s called a “knuckle box”. This knuckle box is a small indentation that is built in right above the knuckle of the big toe.
This is a pretty special feature that not many climbing shoes have. Sometimes this aspect of the Nexxo can be a little bit of a turn off if you aren’t used to how it is supposed to work. If you are used to your big toes bumping up against that top of your climbing shoe instead of being slightly locked into place, this feature might be a little challenging for you.
However, this is a pretty high performance design and really helps the big toe stay in a slightly curled position. This power position really helps with stability and strength.
But having the knuckle box allows your big toe to stay in this power position while still being comfortable. The knuckle of the toe rests in that small indentation built in to the shoe.
There is also a “love bump” underneath the toes which is a distended bump that may seem counterintuitive at first, but this allows the toes to spread out and allows them to give the necessary support for powerful edging performance.
High Performing Rubber
TRAX XT rubber is super quality performing rubber that’s built into the shoe. It is super durable and can easily handle all kinds of terrain, even more slippery surfaces like limestone.
Some climbing shoes have a little bit of trouble gripping different types of plastic that climbing gyms use. This shouldn’t be a problem with the Evolv Nexxo. They can handle all types of plastic material.
Also, the TRAX XT rubber can perform in a wide array of temperatures without dropping too much in performance.
Super Fit
The fit of the shoe also adds to its edging capabilities. Having super security in the fit feel of your climbing shoe will add even more stability and security while edging on small ledges.
Overhangs Are Not a Problem
You shouldn’t’ have much trouble at all edging while on steeper overhangs. All the components, the feature filled toe box, high performance rubber, and its superior fit, allow you to have amazing stability and be sure footed even on super steep climbs.
Great for Pockets
The low profile of the shoe makes it perfect for pockets. You should be able to fit your foot into even small and shallow pockets.
One of the biggest reasons that this shoe is so good at pocket climbing is because the design of the shoe was really meant to be a glove like fit.
The goals was to have the shoe be fit enough to simply slip it on and start climbing. This means the material is extremely close to your fit.
Also, the single velcro strap is placed really high up on the shoe near the ankle. This means you will be able to jam more of your shoe into a deep but small pocket. There will be less material to stop you from getting as far into a pocket as you need.
Not only that, but the toe of the shoe is very pointy while still being super strong. This precision shape fits expertly into pockets.
There is a pretty heavy downturn, which also really helps you pull at the pockets when you are moving from your current position to a new one. You want to make sure you are able to pull on the pockets for support without the shoe slipping out suddenly.
Crack Climbing
The Nexxo has a really low profile and its straps are so near the ankle space that gettin this climbing shoe into a crack should be no problem at all for you.
And since this shoe gets a lot of support from a couple of different place, its downturn, the versatile toe box, and strong rubber, you should have plenty of support while jamming into cracks of all sizes.
The rubber not only gives great support, but it lets you really grip on to the rock in any crack.
Sensitivity
The love bump inside Nexxo forces your toes to press agains the shoe’s material better than most and gives it a much higher sensitivity.
The midsole also has a 1 mm thickness so it’s definitely more sensitive than most.
Is the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe Comfortable?
Comfortable Micro-Fiber and Leather
The Nexxo has a good bit of micro-fiber lining. This lining is much more comfortable than the standard lining which is rougher and thicker. After a long climb, this standard lining usually rubs your foot pretty good sometimes forces you to take more breaks than you typically want to.
However, the micro-fiber here gives pretty great comfort.
The leather also adds a lot to the comfort level, being that it will do a really great job of stretching to conform to you foot. Total leather is the only way you are going to get a full conformity to your foot.
Partial leather upper or full synthetic won’t conform nearly as well, and if it’s full synthetic, it will only conform a very small amount.
When the leather stretches to conform to your foot, it is way more comfortable than if your foot just had to get used to whatever the closest fit you could find.
The leather is also built in from the middle of the shoe to the rear of the shoe. This gives a much better overall comfort because most other shoes don’t have this amount of leather spread around the shoe.
Unique Toe Box
As mentioned earlier, the toe box has a couple of features that really work in its favor to provide superior comfort.
The knuckle box lets the dimple that your big toe’s knuckle can fit it into instead pressing against rubber and material, usually with a good bit of discomfort.
Also, there is a love bump under the toes that force the toes apart which keep them from getting scrunched up and even though the presence of the bump is uncomfortable for a little while, you get used to it and actually gives more comfort in the long run.
Dead Spaces in Heel
The only flaw when talking about comfort that exists in the Evolv Nexxo is in the heel. It doesn’t do the best job of fitting to your heel and you will be able to feel a couple of dead spots.
These dead spots are small patches in the shoe material that don’t completely touch your foot.
Most of the time, this makes it pretty hard to feel the rock and get a good hold on it. It also decreases the comfort level because wherever the shoe doesn’t fit super well to your foot it becomes pretty uncomfortable.
Since these dead spots exist mostly in the heel, you may have a little trouble heel hooknig as well. You should still be able to perform the technical skill pretty well, but at certain points you’ll find it a little tough to feel for the best place to put your foot.
Does the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe Have Good Fit?
Loose Heel
As mentioned before, you will probably feel some dead spots in the heel. This may not only prevent you from heel hooking really well, you may also feel your heel slip up a little while climbing.
The heel cup doesn’t conform super well to your heel and it is a little bit dropped because of the downturn which contributes pretty well to this lack of fit.
Good Fit in Midsole and Arch
The strap of the of the shoe which is located very near the ankle not only tightens width of the shoe to give a good snug fit in the area, it also cinches up the arch as well.
It fits over a large area of the shoe and is able to reach all the way down to where the arch begins. So whenever you end up strapping the velcro down, it actually also tightens up the arch of your shoe.
Built Like a Slipper
The shoe is originally built to fit like a slipper. The velcro strap is still very necessary, but the build is meant to act like a climbing shoe that you can simply shove your foot into and feel extremely fitted without doing much to the straps.
Since its built like a slipper, you should be able to slip this shoe on and off really quickly and easily.
These are the advantages of a velcro system. A lace system in some instances is better than the velcro because you can fine tune the shoes adjustment and get a much more tailored fit.
However you lose ease of use with a full lace system, whereas a velcro system like the Nexxo has does a good job of giving that ease of use.
Wide Footed People Need Not Apply
As with many other climbing shoes, that Nexxo is built narrowly. Wide footed people may not find it very comfortable and you may have to spend a longer period of time choosing the sizing.
People with normal or narrow foot will still have to do some sizing of their own, and it might even be advisable to size up a half or even a full size.
Does the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe Have Good Value?
The Nexxo is pretty high performing, and it still has a higher price tag, but it doesn’t meet the same high price point as some other climbing shoes that have similar performance quality.
The heel of the shoe is its biggest drawback, and it may explain the gap in price compared to other similar climbing shoes.
This shoe is still a really great purchase and can really give you a leg up on your climb especially when edging, and the fact that it is $30 to $40 less than similarly performing does add a good bit of value for money.
Pros and Cons of the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe
Pros
- Pointy toe
- Stronger than average velcro
- Great for toe hooking
- Comfort
Cons
- Loose heel
- Too tight
How does the Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe Compare?
Nexxo Vs Shamans
The Nexxo has a much higher sensitivity rating than the Evovl Shamans do because the thickness in the sole is actually .5 mm thicker than it is in the Shamans.
This smaller measurement means there is going to be less material between your foot and the rock and you should be able to feel the rock face much better.
Nexxo Vs Supra
The evolving supra has a much better fit than the Nexxo does. It isn’t plagued by the Nexxo’s less than ideal heel and it has a lower heel in general, which leaves less room for your heel to slip around in.
What’s the Verdict on Evolv Nexxo Climbing Shoe?
Unique Features, Reasonable Price
The Evolv Nexxo has a few unique features that do make it a pretty great shoe to have in your climbing arsenal. Its knuckle box and love bump create great performance without causing too much discomfort.
Also, it ends up being a good bit less than some other climbing shoes with similar, high performance qualities.