{"id":896,"date":"2020-05-01T16:00:49","date_gmt":"2020-05-01T16:00:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/theclimbinggear.com\/?p=896"},"modified":"2020-08-04T10:42:36","modified_gmt":"2020-08-04T10:42:36","slug":"smearing-climbing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/theclimbinggear.com\/smearing-climbing\/","title":{"rendered":"Smearing Climbing Technique – Explained Thoroughly"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
A good climber sees a path where there is no path. Mountains don’t offer you a staircase to get on the top. You have to figure out the steps and build your way, often with sheer dedication and technique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are numerous methods and moves that require mastering in the gym before you head out on a real adventure.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Imagine a portion of rock with apparently no footholds. An expert climber will know how to use smearing climbing to reach to the top while utilizing the tiniest support the rock has to offer.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In this method of climbing, you press your foot against a rock and utilize the forces of friction to keep you stable. The sole of your climbing shoe is thrust directly into a rock to acquire vertical ground by developing friction. We know this sounds frightening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is hard to imagine walking up a rock by using mere frictional forces. But expert climbers are often seen ascending this way, carrying themselves upward upon the tiniest opportunities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This technique is used in areas where there seem to be no obvious footholds. Many beginners can master smearing at the start by practicing regularly. This is an important requisite for crossing any tread. The problems that arise during smearing are predominantly mental. A climber could face the fear of falling or have doubts upon their grip. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The answer is practice. You do not require as much physical strength to smear as you require confidence and attentivity which are developed only by practice. Your balancing abilities and coordination between body parts need to be rhymed and you can smear the way those goats climb up the mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This method requires more perfection in technical aspects as compared to physical abilities. Your body’s natural flexibility and sense of balance along with your confidence and will power will help you advance on seemingly nothing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
First thing, position your foot upon a hold and then press your weight on it while using that pressure to take off and reach for the next hold with your hands. This part of climbing is called smearing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The pressure needs to be applied to your toes. If the terrain is steep, you need to apply more pressure to stay put. Oftentimes, your body has to be pushed out of the wall so that more weight is concentrated at your feet and then you can create your way up because there is no way otherwise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This sounds simple and can be learned effectively if one practices enough. Though there is no one approach to smearing on different rocks and holds. In most cases, you’ll need to concentrate more weight and dig your feet onto small footholds. While many times, you will be required to pull your body away from the rock face so that more weight is applied to your toes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This intuitive approach requires a last-minute analysis of the situation you are in. With time, you’ll learn to determine how much pressure to apply and where. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Feet are the ship of the mountains. Working up a wall solely with your arms will not be energy efficient. The muscles of your legs have way more capacity for hard work. You need to work with your feet and use your upper limbs for maintaining balance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
When you are ascending a slab or any rock with no apparent footholds, you rely on the frictional forces between the rock and the rubber of your shoe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Your eyes need to attentively lookout for the tiniest depressions or protrusions that will provide you with more friction. Always look out for footholds that will help keep your body in a straight line and keep your balance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Your feet should be directly below you, not far from your body, but within the span of your straight body. This will help you maintain balance on this seemingly tricky ascend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most beginners spend ample time looking for appropriate handholds, reaching out and hanging on to them, rather than footholds. It is good to follow the steps of your wise mountaineers when you are learning their sport. Footholds will take you higher and faster while conserving more of your energy. The tiniest foothold can be smeared if you want to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
You need not step on a foothold again and again to test it. When you step on one, hold it there, keep it still, and judge before shifting your entire weight. You can thrust your weight more firmly if your moves are more focussed and if your feet don’t shake. This will also lead you easily to your next hold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The heel of your foot should be kept low. Remember you are relying on friction, more area of the foot in contact with the rock will mean you stay more firm and stable. A high heel means there is less rubber portion in contact with the rock and this will make it difficult for you to smear. Keeping your heel high will also leave less space for your foot to ascend for lifting up your body and reaching out for the next handhold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is ideal to smear upward easily when the row of little footholds is lined up in a straight line to the top. The trick is when they are not. When you are on a climb where the available footholds are in different directions, you need to maintain your balance as effectively as your footing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
You cannot apply pressure directly downward if the next target goal is to the side, there has to be a counter-pressure opposite to your new direction of movement so that your balance is maintained and falling off the terrain is not in your notes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The main rule to keep in mind is, pressure needs to be applied opposite to the direction of motion for grabbing the next handhold. To quote Newton, every action has an equal and opposite reaction. Your applied force will thrust you directly opposite to itself and this will be your push for ascending higher on the wall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Another key to attaining balance is by pulling in the direction opposite to the desired direction of movement by using your free hand or another foot in a hooked position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Keep in mind to lean over, move your hips away from the wall so that your weight is concentrated on your toes and you acquire a balanced footing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n